With its bright colors, bold patterns, and distinctive style, tartan is synonymous with Scotland around the world.
You may think you know tartan, but its history is as rich and complex as its iconic fabric.
What is tartan?
It is a piece of woven fabric composed of horizontal and vertical stripes in different colors, on a colored background. The interlaced stripes are called a “sett.” Originally, clan members used local plants, mosses, and berries to dye the wool. There are over 7,000 unique registered tartans – even the Obamas and Hello Kitty have their own tartan!
What is a kilt?
Historically known as feileadh-mòr in Gaelic (pronounced philamore), a kilt is a piece of tartan worn around the waist. However, a “true” kilt is usually accompanied by:
- Sporran: a small pouch worn around the waist, over the kilt. Sporran is the Gaelic word for purse.
- Kilt pin: a heavy pin fastened to the outer flap of the kilt.
- Sgian dubh (pronounced skee-an doo): a small dagger that is placed in the sock.
What is the history of tartan?
Where does tartan come from?
Although closely associated with Scotland, the oldest sample of tartan was found in China around 3000 BC. Its Scottish roots, however, date back to the 3rd or 4th century. Since then, we have used it to make kilts, bagpipes, rebellions, and fashion statements.
The Jacobite Rebellion
Let us fast forward a few centuries and we see tartan burst onto the scene. Imagine windswept romantics in the Highlands, wrapped from head to toe in magnificent Scottish tartan. This is a popular conception of Scottish clans and their tartan, but it was the result of clever Jacobite propaganda that added to the mythology and legend over the years.
Bonnie Prince Charlie, Scotland’s roguish Jacobite hero, arrived on Scottish soil dressed entirely in tartan in 1745, using fashion to unite the ancient strength of Scottish clans to fight for the throne. Although the Jacobite Rebellion ultimately failed, tartan became so powerfully linked to Scottish identity and rebellion that it was banned by the British government after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
Tartan, clans and revival
It was not until the mid-19th century that tartan experienced a revival with another epic branding campaign led by none other than Sir Walter Scott. Sir Walter wanted clan chiefs to wear their clan tartans and full Highland dress for the much-anticipated visit of King George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. An excellent idea that had one small flaw however: most chiefs were only just learning that they were supposed to have a specific clan tartan. They nevertheless rose to the occasion, submitting their “official” clan tartans and cementing the link between clans and tartans in history.
The campaign was a great success; King George was so captivated by the fabric that he had a portrait painted of himself as Prince Stuart, complete with a tartan kilt, socks, cape and all. He passed on this fascination and royal connection to his niece, Queen Victoria, who made tartan a fashion statement that endures to this day.
Tartan today
But tartan is not confined to the past; it continues to weave its story through Scotland and the whole world.
It has always been at the cutting edge of modernity – the very first color photograph was of a tartan ribbon and it has even traveled to space!
Tartan is found just as easily on a haute couture runway as in school uniforms. In recent years, some of the biggest names in global fashion have turned to this fabric for its bold appearance and history of rebellion, from Chanel and Dior to Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen.
Its amazing ability to express tradition or subvert it – sometimes even at the same time – means it has been powerfully adopted by causes and groups to represent their values and social conscience. It has connected LGBTQ+ communities with a shared identity, a tartan design was registered to represent the COP26 climate change summit, and it was used to raise awareness for MND in honor of the legendary rugby player, Doddie Weir. There is even a homeless tartan – 20% of all sales of this fabric go to the charity Shelter Scotland.
From poor to rich, from franchised to disadvantaged, tartan is a fabulously diverse, playful, and complex material for everyone.
Which tartan can I wear?
Tartan is for everyone, whether you are Scottish by blood or simply by heart.
For most people, a key factor when choosing their tartan is having a connection to the tartan they wear. One of the most obvious ways to find that connection is to do a little research to discover if you belong to a Scottish clan.
It is also perfectly acceptable to choose a tartan simply because you like the colors and the sett. There are no specific rules governing which tartan you can wear, only traditions. The most important thing is that it makes you proud to wear it.
What types of tartan are there?
When choosing your kilt or tartan, there are a few different options to consider:
- Ancient: vegetable dyes are used to give softer colors. This mimics the way tartan was produced (using natural dyes) before the invention of chemical dyes.
- Modern: modern chemical dyes are used to give darker colors.
- Reproduction / Weathered: colors are reproduced from aged tartans found historically in homes or on battlefields.
- Dress: replaces one of the original colors of the sub-pattern with white.
- Hunting: replaces one of the original colors of the sub-pattern with brown, blue, or green.
The different uses of tartan today
Tartan is not just a traditional garment; it is also a contemporary fashion element and a symbol of social causes. Many renowned fashion designers use tartan in their collections, and it is also used to represent important events and movements. For example, the COP26 tartan was created to symbolize the climate change summit, and a special tartan was created to raise awareness for Doddie Weir’s disease.
In Scotland, tartan is everywhere, whether in everyday clothing, school uniforms, or during cultural events and festivals. It is a tangible link to Scottish history and culture, while remaining relevant and adaptable in the modern world.
The kilt, meanwhile, remains an iconic garment of Scotland. Wearing a kilt is often a statement of pride and identity, and it is worn on many special occasions, from weddings to clan gatherings to the Highland Games.
Tartan in fashion and culture
Tartan is also a popular pattern in global fashion. Many renowned fashion designers, such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, have incorporated tartan into their collections, harnessing its bold appearance and rich history to create unique and striking garments.
In addition to fashion, tartan is used in other cultural fields. It is often seen in films and television shows to represent Scotland and its cultural heritage. Tartan is also used in interior decoration and accessories, bringing a touch of tradition and elegance to various settings.
The importance of tartan for the Scottish people
For the Scottish people, tartan is much more than just a pattern; it is a symbol of their national identity and cultural heritage. Each tartan carries a special meaning, often representing a specific clan or family. Wearing a tartan is a way to show one’s belonging and pride in one’s Scottish roots.
Tartan is also a way to connect with Scottish history. The patterns and colors of tartans often tell stories about battles, historical events, and important figures of Scotland. By wearing a tartan, the Scottish people honor their past while celebrating their living and dynamic culture.
Conclusion
Tartan and kilts are essential elements of Scottish culture, symbolizing history, identity, and national pride. Whether you are Scottish by blood or simply by heart, tartan is for everyone. There are no strict rules about which tartan you can wear, the important thing is that it makes you proud and that you feel connected to Scotland. Whether in contemporary fashion, cultural events, or clan gatherings, tartan continues to weave its story throughout the world.
