The Áo dài, Vietnam’s national garment, is one of the country’s most striking symbols of beauty. Over the centuries, the áo dài has evolved alongside Vietnam, going from royal attire to practical garment, from humble to haute couture, and then back into fashion. The Vietnamese áo dài is beloved by young and old alike, and its elegant lines flatter both men and women. If you’re interested in learning more about the history of the áo dài and getting tips for making your own, keep reading.
The history of the áo dài begins in 1744, when Vietnam was divided into two territories, Đàng Trong (the Inner Land) and Đàng Ngoài (the Outer Land). To distinguish his people, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát of the Inner Land required his subjects to wear a front-buttoned gown with trousers. This five-part robe (áo ngũ thân) inspired the modern áo dài. Royalty and elites crafted their robes from the finest silks, with intricate details and vibrant colors to represent ranks at court.
In the 1930s, the robe was simplified into two parts by the Vietnamese artist Le Mur Nguyễn Cát Tường. The front panel was lengthened to reach the ankle, and the shape became more fitted. As with many “Westernized” ideas, the style was initially met with reluctance. However, after Le Mur designed an áo dài collection for Queen Nam Phương, wife of Vietnam’s last emperor Bảo Đại, urban women began adopting and popularizing the more contemporary style.
After the establishment of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, Hồ Chí Minh wrote an essay in 1947 noting that the áo dài was not suited to the fields or factories, asking the Vietnamese people to adapt their clothing to be more efficient at work. As a result, the áo dài became a robe reserved for professional appearances and special occasions. Nowadays, across the country, high school girls are required to wear the áo dài at least one day per week. Girls in white áo dài riding their bicycles to school have inspired countless Vietnamese songs, poems, and paintings. The áo dài is also worn by women of all ages whenever it’s time to make a good impression.
TIP: Visit the áo dài collection on permanent display at the Vietnamese Women’s Museum in Hanoi to learn more about the history of this robe and its many variations.
Modern áo dài styles are varied. Boat neck, shortened length, short sleeves — modern designers are not afraid to explore creative avenues when it comes to the áo dài. Some of these new takes on the traditional robe make it more practical, meaning it can be worn in less formal settings. Knee-length styles are handy for motorbike and bicycle rides, and you’ll see a variety of more casual necklines worn on summer days, including round neck and boat neck styles.
Vietnamese women love wearing the áo dài for photoshoots in beautiful settings. Golden autumn days in Hanoi call for photoshoots around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. During Tết (Lunar New Year), you’ll see the robe in all its glory as women wear it to visit friends and family, and to pay respects at temples and shrines. A wedding is the perfect occasion to wear your finest áo dài. In Vietnam, the bride and groom as well as the wedding party wear elaborate áo dài during the traditional ceremony, then guests arrive at the reception in simpler yet equally colorful designs.
TIP: For a glimpse into the áo dài’s place in Vietnamese fashion, watch the movie “The Tailor” about an áo dài fashion house in Ho Chi Minh City. The film was Vietnam’s official entry for Best Foreign Language Film at the 2018 Oscars.
The colors of the áo dài each carry meaning. In imperial times, gold was a royal color reserved for kings and queens. Red áo dài are worn during Tết for luck and prosperity. Brides and grooms may also wear red on their wedding day, so it’s wise to choose another color if you’re a guest. White symbolizes purity and innocence, as seen in the white robes of high school girls, and black is most commonly worn at funerals. Vietnamese women also choose áo dài colors based on their element (metal, wood, water, fire, or earth) based on their birth year.
Anyone can wear an áo dài as a sign of respect. Gala dinners, important meetings, and celebrations are all appropriate occasions — just be sure to always wear your áo dài over trousers or bottoms. If you’re looking for a ready-to-wear áo dài, you’ll be spoiled for choice in the shops of Hanoi’s Old Quarter and Hội An ancient town. Hội An tailors can also make you an entirely new robe in just a few days. Don’t hesitate to choose your own style and colors to add a personal touch. To create a custom áo dài, visit Vạn Phúc silk village, 20 minutes from Hanoi. There, you can buy high-quality silk at the source, learn more about silk production, have your áo dài custom-made, and take gorgeous photos among the floating silk ribbons.
The traditional Vietnamese garment, the áo dài, is not just a piece of clothing, but a profound symbol of the country’s culture and history. Every detail of the áo dài, from its cut to its color, tells a story rich in meaning and tradition. Through its evolutions, the áo dài remains a living testament to Vietnamese elegance, reflecting both ancient heritage and modern influences. Whether for a ceremony, a special occasion, or simply to celebrate the beauty of Vietnamese culture, wearing an áo dài is a way to connect deeply with the soul of Vietnam.
