Vibrant colors often characterize Korea’s traditional attire, the hanbok. The hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) has a history as colorful as each garment. It was worn daily about a century ago; however, it remains an integral part of Korean culture, with people wearing it on special occasions and holidays. We take a closer look at this iconic costume.
The Korean hanbok, which has its roots in present-day North Korea, northeastern China, and parts of Mongolia, was designed to facilitate ease of movement. The basic structure of traditional Korean clothing, specifically the jeogori (jacket), baji (trousers), and chima (skirt), was established during the Three Kingdoms of Korea (57 BCE to 668 CE), and the design features have remained relatively unchanged to this day.
History and Classification of the Hanbok
The hanbok can be classified into everyday, ceremonial, and special clothing, then categorized by gender, age, and season. Despite the differences in these classifications, the basic aesthetic framework of all hanboks is centered around the Korean affection for the natural, the desire for supernatural protection and blessings, and the Confucian dress code that emphasizes propriety and primary colors.
Design and Aesthetics
The overall design of the hanbok aims to create a delicate flow of lines and angles. Similar to the gentle, sloping eaves of hanoks (traditional Korean houses), the balance between the curved baerae (the lower line of the jacket sleeves) and the sharp angles of the dongjeong (the pleated white lining of the jacket collar) illustrates the softness and elegance of traditional Korean aesthetics.
Another notable feature of the hanbok is its vibrant colors. Traditional hanboks featured vivid hues that corresponded to the five elements of yin-yang theory: white (metal), red (fire), blue (wood), black (water), and yellow (earth).
Color and Material Symbolism
Colors also symbolized social standing and marital status. Bright colors, for instance, were typically worn by children, and muted tones by middle-aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore a yellow jeogori and a red chima, while matrons wore green and red. However, women with sons wore navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colors. Conversely, the working class was required to wear white but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal on special occasions.
A person’s social standing could also be identified by the material of their hanbok. The upper classes wore tightly woven ramie (plant-based) fabrics or other high-quality lightweight materials during the warmer months. They dressed in plain and patterned silks throughout the year. Those in the working class were limited to cotton.
Patterns and Symbols
Patterns were embroidered on traditional Korean clothing to represent the wearer’s wishes. For example, peonies on a wedding robe signified a wish for honor and wealth. In contrast, lotus flowers symbolized the hope for nobility, while bats and pomegranates illustrated a desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes, and tigers were reserved for the hanboks of royalty and high-ranking officials.
Evolution and Modernization
In the late 19th century, Western suits and dresses became more popular, as the West has continued to influence South Korea’s formal and casual attire to this day. However, on special occasions such as weddings, Lunar New Year, ancestral rites, and dol (a child’s first birthday), people still wear their hanbok.
Korea’s traditional attire has undergone various changes throughout its more than 2,000-year history, and it continues to evolve today. Specialist designers have made the classic patterns wearable with designs that render traditional motifs and structures in plain cotton, linen, leather, and lace. These modern reinterpretations of the hanbok have made waves in the fashion world across the globe, from the Champs-Élysées to the runways of New York Fashion Week.
Cultural Value of the Hanbok
However, while it may continue to change, the hanbok retains a glorious cultural heritage, which is not only valuable for its historical significance and the preservation of traditional Korean clothing, but also for its uniquely Korean artistic meaning.
The hanbok, with its delicate lines and vibrant colors, remains a powerful symbol of Korean culture. It not only illustrates traditional elegance and beauty, but also the evolution and adaptability of Korean culture through the ages. Whether for special occasions or to honor the past, the hanbok continues to be a garment dear to the hearts of Koreans and an essential element of their cultural heritage.
