What is a Qipao? Discover the History of this Magnificent Garment
When someone asks you to imagine a Chinese dress, a qipao (旗袍 qípáo) is often what comes to mind. Perhaps in a smoky art deco nightclub in 1930s Shanghai? Or worn by an actress in a 1960s Hong Kong film?
In this blog, we will examine the origins and history of the qipao. We will also see how the qipao was influenced by the culture of the time and how it in turn influenced culture and society.
History of the Qipao – Three Theories
The qipao has a fascinating history, involving the rise and fall of the Qing dynasty (1644 – 1912), the Republic of China (1911-1949), the liberation of women, China’s opening up, westernization, and a revival in the 1980s. As we will see, the qipao may even date back to the Han dynasty (221-206 BC)!
The exact origin of the qipao is not universally accepted. There seem to be three main competing theories. What is interesting is what these three theories have in common. They all agree that the qipao was influenced by foreign clothing. However, the exact source and degree of influence are debated. Let’s look at these theories:
Theory 1: The Qipao and the Manchus
The first theory is that the qipao is closely related to the Manchu robe called “chángpáo” 長袍, similar for men and women. During the Qing dynasty, all Han Chinese men had to wear Manchu-style clothing. Later, only officials and men of a certain social class were required to wear Manchu-style clothing. The male version was called 長衫 chángshān, which via Cantonese (chèuhng sàam) gave the English name “cheongsam” for the women’s dress. The Manchu robe for women, the qipao, was very different from the modern qipao we know. It was not form-fitting but on the contrary loose, specifically to conceal the wearer’s silhouette.
Theory 2: The Qipao in Ancient China
The second theory claims that the qipao existed in China since the Western Zhou dynasty (1046 BC – 771 BC), more than two thousand years before the Qing dynasty. According to Yuan Jieying (袁杰英), author of the book “Chinese Cheongsam”, the qipao shares several similarities with a narrow, straight skirt that was popular among women during the Western Zhou dynasty. The qipao also shares similarities with a one-piece long robe that was popular among women during the Han dynasty. According to this theory, these ancient robes likely incorporated ideas and features from Manchu clothing to become the qipao we know today.
Theory 3: The Foreign Connection
The third and final theory, proposed by Bian Xiangyang (卞向阳) in his book “An Analysis on the Origin of Qipao”, is that the qipao was born during the Republic of China, when people were open and receptive to foreign influences. The qipao would thus be a blend of Western clothing styles and traditional Chinese styles. In particular, similarities with the waistcoat and one-piece dress popular among Western women at the time are highlighted to support this theory.
History of the Qipao – The Roaring Twenties in Shanghai
The first theory, concerning the Manchu robe, seems to be the most accepted today. One reason may be the way the qipao gained popularity. One of the first adopters of the qipao was Madame Wellington Koo, the first lady of the Republic of China. Her fashion sense was admired everywhere, and her style often incorporated Manchu clothing, adapted to modern times. Madame Koo is also widely considered to have popularized the longer side slit, often seen in modern qipao. Before her, the slit generally reached the ankle, but no higher.
History of the Qipao – Its Evolution
It is also interesting to look at how the qipao and its accessories evolved together. In the early days, the qipao was worn exclusively with pants. One of the biggest innovations in early 20th century women’s fashion was nylon stockings. The higher cut and longer slit were used to show off this new fashion item. Today, the qipao is often worn bare-legged. The traditional Vietnamese dress, Ao Dai, is similar to the qipao and is worn exclusively with pants.
History of the Qipao – Feminism and Equality
One of the factors that helped the qipao’s popularity in the 1920-1949 period in Shanghai was the push for more gender equality and women’s liberation. The Qing dynasty was oppressive toward women. After the fall of the dynasty and the establishment of the Republic, women were emboldened to claim liberation and equality. They were no longer to be forced into traditional gender roles according to neo-Confucian thought, required to bind their feet, or required to have long hair. One way to protest was to wear the traditionally male robe, the changshan. In the early days of the Republic, the qipao was seen as a political statement in favor of gender equality.
History of the Qipao – Over the Years
From 1949 to the 1970s, the qipao was not very popular in mainland China due to the political reality of the time. However, women working in Hong Kong and Taiwan wore qipao-inspired clothing at work, usually custom-made in cotton or wool, with a matching jacket. This was, however, replaced by Western-style clothing in the 1960s and 1970s. These Western garments were perceived as more practical and more modern, and since they did not need to be custom-made, they were often cheaper.
The revival of the qipao in mainland China in the 1980s, supported by the Chinese government of the time, made the qipao an explicit part of Chinese culture and tradition. Today, you can still see qipao worn in formal contexts such as weddings, galas, or even official diplomatic events. You can also see the qipao in certain service industries, with some restaurants, hotels, and airlines using qipao-inspired uniforms for their female staff.
