Introduction Caribe Sur, in the far south of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, is probably my favorite place to mentally escape reality. This place is exactly what I imagined as a teenager when I dreamed of a life centered around surfing, sunshine, and bicycles.
Geography and Culture This region starts at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (where the party is in full swing) and ends at Manzanillo. Between these two points, you’ll find a series of beautiful, secluded beaches, perfect for strolling, hiking, and simply wandering. The culture here is slightly different from the rest of Costa Rica – residents still live by the pura vida ethic and tico time reigns supreme. There is also a distinct indigenous influence and a strong Afro-Caribbean culture. Although this place isn’t the easiest to reach, if you’re looking for adventure with a dose of pura vida, this is the ideal spot.
Travel Logistics To get there, book your flight to Puerto Limón. You can also land in San José, but the drive is long and somewhat perilous. Limón, on the other hand, is only an hour from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. Once at the airport, you can rent a car or book a shuttle. The cheapest way is to take a bus, which takes about two hours; a shuttle or car will take 50 minutes. If you’re staying at Hotel Aguas Claras, they will arrange transportation for you.
Accommodation Personally, it doesn’t matter to me whether I’m directly on the beach or not – the jungle is just as wonderful as the sea. I like to book a vacation rental near Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva, two excellent places to set up a base. If you prefer a hotel, book at Hotel Aguas Claras. This beautiful collection of beach bungalows is run by artist and longtime resident Elizabeth Steinworth, and as she says, it’s a place for artists, doers, and tinkerers. Like most things in this precious corner of the world, it was created with respect for the environment, so that your surroundings feel as natural as if the land had created them itself. And you’ll be enchanted by Playa Chiquita just steps from your door.
When to Go April is the nesting season for green turtles, an experience not to be missed. But if surfing is more your thing, the best waves are from December to March.
Day 1
Arrival I usually arrive in the afternoon and settle in, taking a deep breath and reminding myself that I am now on tico time. Sometimes I head straight to the beach for a swim and a short walk, but usually, I sit on the deck and enjoy the surroundings – spider monkeys tend to pass by in the afternoon, and the howlers come a little later. The first time I heard a howler monkey, I was convinced I was going to be devoured by a mythological monster, but their roar is bigger than they are. They sometimes like to throw things from above, so watch your head.
Happy Hour The DaLime Beach Club on the Hotel Aguas Claras property is the perfect spot for happy hour before they close at 5 p.m. The cocktails there are divine, but my favorite is the hibiscus tonic (I’m a mocktail enthusiast). They often play reggae tracks, perfect for soaking up the relaxed vibes.
Dinner When I’m hungry, I head to Papaya, the on-site restaurant at Hotel Aguas Claras. Let’s talk aesthetics first: touches of pink and orange among natural wood – did they take design advice from my dreams? Then, let’s talk about the food: it is local, organic, and healthy, fitting perfectly with everything I love about Caribe Sur. The menu is constantly changing, and I am never disappointed.
Day 2
Morning I’m a morning person, and since we don’t have much planned until the evening, I go to Gypsea Cafe in Playa Chiquita because the coffee there is delicious and the eggs Benedict are decadent.
Daytime I like to spend at least one day exploring the beaches from Playa Chiquita to Punta Uva. There are several secluded coves along the way, so I stop and relax when I find a spot I like. I swim and rest under a palm tree before moving on to the next one. I carry a water bottle and a quick-dry towel in my backpack, and I’m ready to explore.
Dinner Since I had brunch and skipped lunch, I enjoy an early dinner at Selvin’s, the best Caribbean spot in the area. Sometimes I order something with shrimp, but just as often I get the Caribbean chicken that I crave when I’m not in Caribe Sur.
After Dark Now, for a trip highlight. Before you arrive, book a turtle-watching tour in Gandoca. The Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo stretches just south of Playa Chiquita to Manzanillo, all the way to the border with Panama. It is a haven for green turtles, as well as green macaws, jaguars, and other incredible wildlife. The shuttle picks you up in the early evening, and the drive is about 45 minutes around the refuge to Gandoca Beach.
Day 3
Morning After sleeping well following my incredible evening, it’s time to hop on a banana bike to Playa Cocles for the day. I head straight to Caribeans Chocolate and Coffee for, you guessed it, chocolate and coffee before finding a spot on the beach.
Daytime The waves here are perfect for beginner surfers. Although I’ve been trying to surf for years, I am still an absolute beginner. You can rent boards here and book lessons too. I’ll probably grab lunch at Sage, the beach restaurant at Playa Beachfront Hostel, a convenient stop since I can arrive barefoot and in my swimsuit, order Caribbean rice and beans, and stay for the afternoon.
Dinner After a quick shower and change into a light, flowy dress, it’s time for dinner at El Refugio. I love diving into beautiful plates of food under the stars in the garden of this steakhouse run by a husband-and-wife duo from Argentina.
Day 4
Morning Since I usually stay in a rental, I have a light breakfast; either fruit bought from the farm stand or quick rice and eggs. But if you’re at the hotel, choose something light at the restaurant before grabbing a banana bike and heading out for an easy 4-mile ride to Manzanillo.
Daytime Diving for lobsters. You can book in advance with local chef Andy Cook Campbell, owner of the Cool & Calm Cafe in Manzanillo. He will take you out by boat, help you snorkel for lobsters, then take you to a secluded beach to enjoy your catch. Other more budget-friendly options include kayaking in the protected waters of the coast or, my preferred choice, hiking in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo – the easy coastal trail is about 3 and a half miles. With the rainforest on one side and the ocean on the other, the experience is immersive. Then, take a quick swim at Tom’s Bay before heading back to Manzanillo.
Afternoon If I haven’t booked a lobster tour with Andy, I’ll grab a meal at his Cool & Calm Cafe, a Rasta-themed open-air restaurant at the entrance of Manzanillo.
Evening If you’re like me, a book-and-bed type, have a light dinner at Arrecife, which is right on the beach at Punta Uva, and enjoy one last evening peacefully listening to
the sounds of the jungle. But if you’re up for a lively evening, head to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Jonny’s Place and Hot Rocks are both very popular and extremely fun.
Day 5
Departure Wake up, enjoy one last plate of fresh fruit and incredible coffee, and take one final plunge into the sea. But now, it’s time to say goodbye and return to real life. Until next time, Caribe Sur.
Continue Planning Your Trip to Costa Rica
- Enjoy the ocean breeze on the 8 best beaches in Costa Rica
- Kids will have fun with these family-friendly activities
- Everything you need to know before visiting the land of pura vida
- Keep your wallet happy with these budget tips
