Brittany, a relatively isolated region in the far northwest of France, boasts perhaps the richest textile tradition in the country, particularly in lace. Since the Middle Ages, Breton women have woven, embroidered, knitted, and laced everything from costumes to tapestries, from veils to fishing nets.
Nowhere is the Breton lace tradition more striking than in Pays Bigouden, a small sub-region southwest of Quimper, which boasts a tradition of tall headdresses. No one knows exactly how or when the tradition of these tall headdresses began, but one thing is certain: it occupied Bigouden women for months during the winter months in a frenzy of lace-making. Some of the most elaborate examples of this traditional headdress are further embellished with embroidery, representing hours of additional work. The headdress typically tops an equally elaborate dress, skirt, and apron, also adorned with embroidery and sometimes lace accents.
Breton Lace Throughout History
Until the French Revolution, tapestry and lace were among the main industries of northwestern France. Bayeux and Alençon in Normandy were renowned for their own distinctive lace patterns and small towns had their own prolific communities of lace-makers. The lace styles were as individual as the towns themselves: Bayeux was known for its black bobbin lace, Alençon for its white needlepoint lace so esteemed it was called point de France.
Despite the influence of Breton lace, the tradition of tall headdresses remains a particularly Bigouden tradition, and artisans continue to make these elaborate headdresses today. Women generally wear them only at important festivals and folk events, but a handful of women, mostly elderly, continue to wear these fantastic creations every day.
A Great Variety of Headdresses
Brittany is a historical region located in northwestern France, with a population of over 4 million people. This small region is famous for its variety of traditional costumes, officially there are 66 of them. An essential part of the female costume is a headpiece called a coiffe. There are more varieties of coiffes than costumes, because for a young woman of marriageable age, for a married woman, or for a widow, the coiffe must be different. They vary in size and complexity, ranging from small pieces of lace worn on a bun, to elaborate and imposing creations with floating ribbons, but they all have one thing in common: they are white in color and are mainly made of lace (sometimes embroidered calico is used instead).
The most famous coiffe (but not the most beautiful) not only in Brittany, but throughout France, is the Bigouden coiffe. It is a cylinder of starched lace 30 to 40 cm high, perched on top of the head, like a tower. It has become an icon of folk Brittany.
Each village and region has singularities in the coiffe, which indicate to others where the woman comes from. And the names of the coiffes come from the names of these regions: Carhaix, Quimper, Saint-Malo. The most beautiful coiffes from my point of view come from Pont Aven and Pontivy.
The Headdress Over Time
The use of such headpieces died out fairly recently, and even in the 50s, their use was still common. Nowadays, no one wears a coiffe in daily life (except a few elderly women in some villages), but at festivals, Breton women still cover their heads with lace, ribbons, cones, and bonnets, just as they did a hundred years ago.
The Breton coiffe is not simply a fashion accessory, it is a work of art and a tangible manifestation of Breton culture. The coiffes vary not only according to age and marital status, but also according to region, making each coiffe unique. The embroidery and lace that adorn them require hours of meticulous work, testifying to the exceptional craftsmanship of Breton artisans.
Breton coiffes, particularly those from Pays Bigouden, are perhaps the most iconic. These tall, cylindrical coiffes are impressive not only for their size, but also for the complexity of their craftsmanship. They require finely worked lace and great mastery of the craft. The Pays Bigouden coiffes are often worn on grand occasions, such as weddings and folk festivals, where they are proudly displayed as a symbol of Breton cultural identity.
Headdresses and Modernity
Although the tradition of coiffes has declined over the decades, it is experiencing renewed interest thanks to festivals and cultural events. Younger generations are rediscovering these heritage treasures and some contemporary designers are incorporating elements of coiffes into their modern creations. This helps keep the tradition alive while allowing it to evolve with the times.
The making of coiffes requires particular skills in lace-making and embroidery, skills that are passed down from generation to generation. The artisans who continue to create these coiffes perpetuate an ancestral tradition while bringing their own personal touch. Each coiffe is thus a unique work, reflecting the history and culture of the region from which it originates.
Conclusion
Breton coiffes represent much more than simple clothing accessories. They are the symbol of a rich and diverse culture, rooted in centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. Whether through the imposing coiffes of Pays Bigouden or the more discreet coiffes of other Breton regions, each piece tells a story and bears witness to the cultural heritage of Brittany.
Today, while coiffes are no longer worn daily, they continue to fascinate and inspire. Festivals and cultural events offer a precious opportunity to rediscover these heritage treasures and celebrate the richness of Breton culture. Thanks to the efforts of artisans and enthusiasts of Breton culture, the tradition of coiffes continues to live and flourish, offering a tangible link between the past and the present.
